What’s in a Name?

A few weeks ago I found myself weaving my way through the crazy traffic on the FDR Drive looking for a way off Manhattan. My eyes were peeled for the Triborough Bridge when I glimpsed an exit for the RFK Bridge. Huh? Had they built a new bridge since I was last in the city? Thankfully a helpful sign explained that the Triborough had been renamed RFK. That got me thinking (and I had plenty of time for that on my 7 hour drive home) about the practice of renaming structures, natural features, and institutions - sometimes to honor our heroes and on the flip side sometimes to restore the traditional name used by indigenous peoples. Do you remember when JFK was Idlewild Airport or John Wayne Airport was simply Orange Co. Airport? Over 100 schools have been renamed to honor Reverend Doctor Martin Luther King, Jr. And in 2015 President Obama announced that Mt. McKinley would finally be officially called Denali again, 99 years after the government chose to disregard the native name meaning “the Great One”.

We’re not sure who gets to decide these name changes, but OOAL would like to be the first to propose a renaming of something to honor one of our heroes, the late Ruth Bader Ginsberg. Since our milieu is apples, we propose changing the name of Rhode Island Greening (affectionately known to us as RIG) to RBG. This seems like the perfect apple with which to honor this most accomplished and dedicated woman. RIG was the first greening to be named in North America, and it is the apple to which all green apples aspire. It was adaptable enough to survive and thrive under the most hostile conditions, and it is acknowledged as one of the most important American varieties. Because it is well balanced enough to enjoy for fresh eating, makes a good pie when a bit under ripe and is a real good keeper, it was really a game changer in the history of apples. Like Justice Ginsberg, RIG is sprightly, just a bit tart and packs a punch, although we doubt it can do as many push ups as she could. Since Rhode Island is our smallest state, why not rename this apple to honor our smallest Justice with the HUGE legacy? And while we’re at it, what about Brock Obama?

Week 4 apples lined up on our newly painted, apple red, screen door: Wickson, Rome, RBG (the apple formerly known as RI Greening), Gray Pearmain, Faux Whelp, Brock (Obama) and Blue Pearmain

Picks of the week:
(Click each variety for more info)

Blue Pearmain

Brock

Faux Whelp

Gray Pearmain

Rhode Island Greening

Rome

Wickson

Although we haven’t included any wedding cake or a bridal bouquet in your bag, you will find “something old, something new, something borrowed, and something blue”. Also something green and something gray. The oldies will be familiar to those of you who’ve been in the CSA for a few years - they are favorites that we try to include as often as we can. First bitten into around 1650 Rhode Island Greening (or should I say RBG) is the grandmother of the group. The green skin will make you think of Granny Smith, but one bite will dispel that association. This apple is firm but easy to chew, and the slightly lemony flesh won’t make your jaw lock in place from the acid shock. We only had enough to give you a taste this year, but hopefully that taste will make you want more.

Blue Pearmain, a variety that dates back to the 1700’s, is the apple we worship when it comes to baked apples. Its thick skin and firm flesh hold up well to the heat of the oven; you can stuff them with sweet or savory ingredients and not fear that they will blow apart while you are preparing the rest of the dinner. Although the flesh is delicious fresh, Blue Pearmain really shines when it is cooked.

Gray Pearmain shares a surname with “Blue” but not much else. This heirloom Maine native cries out to be eaten fresh. The flesh is firm and pleasantly juicy without drowning you in liquid. The flavors are complex: Josh described the flavor as jolly-rancher-sour-apple-yumminess. Alex was reminded of starfruit. To me it tastes like the smell of a pear. See what you think.

The other oldie in your bag is Rome which dates back to 1816. While Maine can’t claim this variety as its own despite having a town of the same name, it used to be a favorite among bakers all over New England and the Midwest where it originated. In the past we have recommended this variety for sauce and fresh eating as well as pies. but we don’t think the flavor this year is as good as it should be. They are also smaller than usual which likely is a result of the drought. So mix them together with other varieties when you cook them or try them in the recipe of the week - Alex and Josh gave them the thumbs up.

Wickson often grows as co-joined twins. Did you find one in your bag?

The two new(ish) apples this week are Brock and Wickson. Both were introduced in the early 1900’s on opposite sides of the country. We’ve included Brock because it holds the distinction of being the only named apple ever released by the University of Maine. It was bred to withstand the cold Maine winters. Originally intended as a colorful sauce apple, many like it as a dessert apple too. Wickson is a little gem from Humbolt County, CA. It is the final installment of the CSA’s crab quintet, and we think it is worth the wait. In fact last year we didn’t pick the Wickson til November 11th when it were frozen on the tree. We pressed it into cider that rocked our world. We love this diminutive and flavorful apple fresh or squeezed.

Having covered old, new and blue, we come to “borrowed”. That would be the apple we are calling Faux Whelp. For years this apple has been living its life under the assumed or borrowed name “Fox Whelp”, but we now know that not to be its true identity. The real Fox Whelp is a bittersharp, English cider apple. The one in your share is tasty fresh and good for sauce. Mix it with other varieties if you want to try it in a pie. The path of this apple is long and winding, and the mystery behind the true Fox Whelp has yet to be solved. If you are intrigued, you can read more about it in the zine Malus, Issue #10.

Our apples come to you straight from the tree, so, as with all fresh produce, please be sure to wash them thoroughly before eating. Some of the apples are grown using Integrated Pest Management by the orchards we collaborate with throughout Maine, and some are organically grown here on Super Chilly Farm.

Apple Identification with DNA: Identity and Parentage Revelations using New Tools

with Cameron Peace of Washington State University, moderated by John Bunker

Wednesday, October 21 — 1:00 PM eastern time

Join Cameron and John this Wednesday for a lively talk about DNA testing of apples. Cameron will explain how advanced DNA testing is not only helping to identify mystery varieties, it’s also helping us to understand the ancestry of all apples. As we invent the fruit culture of future, collaborations between orchardists and scientists will be critical. It should be fun!

You can preregister at Heritage Orchard Conference, University of Idaho.

Recipe of the Week

Since most of the apple recipes in this newsletter tend toward vegetarian, I am always on the lookout for someone willing to experiment with apples and meat. When Josh suggested we include Chicken Normandy, a dish that pairs browned and braised chicken with and a savory apple cream sauce, I was happy to take him up on his suggestion. He and Alex have been experimenting with various apple varieties to find those that can hold their own in this slow-cooked recipe. Here is what they recommend.

Chicken Normandy

from Josh Hinchman & Alex Mahaney

A few weeks back when apples grew soft at an alarming rate, Josh began his search for the perfect apple to include in this classic Chicken Normandy recipe. The first 4-5 varieties he tried collapsed into sauce and gave the dish the sour note of a poorly tuned G#. With each new crop of CSA apples he continued the search knowing that it was only a matter of time before he found the the perfect one. One day last week Josh returned from picking with John and handed me a bunch of Rome apples. I was disappointed when I bit into the tough skin and dense flesh. This sent me a pensive stupor over what this apple could possibly be good for. Along comes Josh wielding my Dutch oven, three Romes and his Chicken Normandy recipe. My oh my, what a pleasant surprise this apple turned out to be. It took on all the flavor of the onion and chicken and held up well in the heat of the oven. Most importantly for me the Rome did not impart the same fruity flavor as did Wealthy and some of the earlier varieties, and it made for a really delicious meal. We strongly encourage incorporating this apple in some of your favorite savory dishes this week and just seeing where it takes you, but be warned it may not impress you if eaten fresh!

Ingredients:

4 medium apples - cored and sliced 1/4” thick
2 boneless chicken thighs
Salt and pepper
Flour
1 medium onion - sliced 1/8” thick
1/8 cup heavy cream
3 TBS butter
1/4 cup brandy
1/2 cup sweet or hard apple cider
sprinkle of hot chile flakes (optional)
2 leaves fresh sage - chopped (optional)

Directions:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Remove chicken from the fridge, and salt lightly.
Melt 1 TBS butter in a Dutch oven, and saute apple slices in the butter over medium heat till light brown, about 3-5 minutes.
Remove apples from the Dutch oven, and transfer them to a bowl or plate. Leave the juices behind in the pan.
Place the flour in a shallow bowl, and dredge the chicken thighs in the flour.
Add 1 TBS of butter to the leftover apple juices in the Dutch oven. Add the chicken, and fry over high heat for 3-5 minutes, until the outside of the thighs is browned and a little burned. Remove from the pan.
Add the chopped onions to the pan along with the remaining TBS of butter. Let the onions caramelize until they are translucent and light brown for 10-20 minutes over low-medium heat. Stir occasionally.
When the onions are caramelized, leave them in the pan, and deglaze the pan with brandy, scraping up all the burnt bits on the bottom.
Add the apple cider, and sage and chile flakes if using.
Place the chicken on top of the onions. The upper part of the meat should be visible above the cider.
Bake uncovered for 30 minutes.
Remove the Dutch oven from the oven. Take out the chicken, and set aside, You can cover it loosely with foil to keep it warm.
Add the sauteed apples back into the pan and heat over a low flame.
Stir in the cream and salt and pepper to taste. Continue to stir till the apples are warm and the sauce is steaming but not boiling.
Place the chicken on top of the apples, and serve. A sprinkle of grated Parmesan cheese is a nice accompaniment.