Anyone who has ever driven through rural New England or upstate New York likely has an image of the quintessential apple orchard: row after row of manicured trees cascading down north-facing slopes, a mowed or sparsely vegetated understory, and branches bent to the ground with their burdens of apples. These orchards may have 100 trees or 10,000 but for the most part they are similarly arranged to allow for efficient care, maximum production and protection of the trees. And then there are our orchards (we have three of them) that break the orchard paradigm Our orchards look nothing like that.
John started our oldest orchard 45 years ago. You couldn’t even call it an orchard then; he just went around the cleared land close to the house with his rock bar. Wherever he could jam it into some soil between the bedrock, he planted a tree. Although he was happy to eat any apples the trees produced, his goal was to use the trees as a repository for all the rare, old varieties that he was discovering around Maine. He was planting a preservation orchard, not a production orchard. As the number of trees he wanted to save began to exceed the number of ledge-free planting sites , he started to graft multiple varieties onto each standard tree. He was careful to tag each branch so he would know what was what, but 45 years later, some of those tags are on branches that tower overhead. There is nothing practical about these trees. Their placement is stochastic. Each one may produce multiple bushels of apples, but they can be from 12 different varieties that all ripen at different times. Some overhang our grape arbor. Others have spread so wide they shade our vegetable gardens. But they also produce a lot of scion wood that gets shared with apple enthusiasts around the country, Without these nonsensical trees, many old Maine varieties would be lost to future generations.
The second orchard we planted might be even more confusing to an onlooker. This orchard is situated on another piece of ledgey land that we cleared in order to get winter sun to the PV panels on our roof. In an effort to start building soil on this site, we piled all the brush and stumps from the trees that were removed into a giant hugel mound. The first apples we planted were set around the base of the hugel mound with the anticipation that as the woody material decomposed over time it would provide nutrients for the trees. In the past 10 years we have planted many more trees in concentric circles around the site and created mini hugel mounds adjacent to each one. Between the trees we have allowed the native vegetation to return and grow based on the thinking that apple trees grown in the forest edge often have little to no insect damage. We wonder if the the shrubs and herbaceous plants act as a deterrent to insects or partner with the apples to make them more resistant to pests and disease. To explore this idea further at the base of our apples we have planted companion plants that attract beneficial insects, are pest confusers, or are dynamic accumulators that bring up nutrients from deep in the soil and make them available to the apple trees. With all this growth below and between the trees, this orchard more closely resembles a jungle than an orchard. Some would call it chaotic. We think of it as a giant experiment, and to spend time there is endlessly interesting. As a bonus we also get fruit.
Our third orchard tips closer to the iconic, but it’s not quite a bullseye. Yes, the trees are planted in straight rows on standard rootstock. They are pruned and tagged with names. The land is former pasture land without too much ledge. But on closer inspection it is obvious that there are some unorthodox practices employed in the orchard. Between the trees and in wide swaths between the rows there are native wildflowers blooming throughout the season. We leave these intentionally to provide habitat for pollinators and only mow them once in late fall. When we planted the first trees in the orchard, we took care to space them evenly. But soon seedlings began to appear (one summer our apprentices flagged 200 seedlings), and they proved to be too great a temptation for John. He started grafting onto them so what were once orderly rows are now haphazard. Look closely at the tags, and you’ll discover that you’ve never heard of most of the apple varieties we’re growing. That is because a majority of them are discoveries that we or fellow fruit explorers have found and named. Others are trees John grew from seed he collected. Some we have neither seen nor tasted the fruit, but a friend loves it and encouraged us to give it a try. Most of the varieties are grafted onto only on one or two trees. We are trialing them to see if they thrive in Maine, if they might be useful for cooking, fresh eating or cider. This is not a preservation orchard or a production orchard, but a orchard of possibilities.
Perhaps you are wondering how the CSA fits into all of this. Which orchard supplies the apples that arrive to you in brown paper bags? Although none of the orchards were planted with the CSA in mind, all three contribute to the apples in your share. And this is also why you may only get one or two Garden Royals since they all are produced on one branch at the top of a tree that is host to five varieties. Since part of our goal in starting the CSA was to provide a market for historical and rare varieties so that other orchardists would be encouraged to grow them, we have cultivated wonderful relationships with growers over the last 15 years who allow us free rein in their orchards. The Apple Farm in Fairfield has even been generous enough to let us topwork many trees in their orchard to varieties that we want for the CSA. Perhaps one day we will have to compete with their customers for those rare apples, but then that would be a happy result.
Picks of the week:
(Click each variety for more info)
We hope the past three apple shares have introduced you to the wide ranging apple family and whetted your appetite for more. This week we have picked eight varieties for you to try. There is something for everyone in this share so round up your neighbors and have a tasting. If you can’t get to them all in one sitting - no worries - October apples keep a lot longer than the earlier ripening varieties.
A tasty bunch of Week #4 apples from the left: Wolf River, Milden, Connell Red, King of Tompkins County, Pound Sweet, Sharon, Hidden Rose and Redfield.
Begin your tasting with the most ostentatious apple in the bunch, Wolf River. This monstrous apple is an eye-catcher for both its size and the splash of golden green that tops off its bright crimson color. Wolf River is beloved from Maine to Wisconsin where it originated, and no other Maine apples conjures so many memories of grandma’s pies. We like to mix it with other varieties since it’s flavor is mild. If you prefer to use it alone, try Carol Gilbert’s Walk About Apple Pie. Wolf River is excellent for drying.
If you’re looking for an apple to mix with Wolf River in your next crisp, try the bright yellow and red striped Milden. We haven’t had it in the CSA often, and frankly we aren’t quite sure how to pronounce its name - is the i short as in “Milton”, (hence mill-den) or long as is “mild”, (hence, mile-den)? We’re voting for the latter pronunciation since an alternative name for this apple is Milding which sounds better with a long i. Whichever way you say it, this 200+ year old variety from NH is an all-purpose apple that can be used fresh or baked or turned into sauce.
Another Wisconsin native in the line up this week is Connell Red. We’re a little confused about this one as well. On the one hand our friend and fellow orchardist, Richard Murphy, claims this is his favorite fresh eating apple. On the other hand the folks at the Apple Farm say that one of their staff swears that this is the very best apple for pies. We’re leaving it up to you to determine to which side your Connell Red rolls.
One apple that doesn’t leave us scratching our heads is King of Tompkins County. The name may sound a bit pretentious but this King is deserving of all your adoration. Originally discovered in NJ before 1800, this apple found it’s way to Maine where it is still producing big crops in old orchards. The flesh is juicy, the flavor sweet and well balanced. Eat them fresh, add them to cider, or cook them into sauce.
The Pound Sweet trees were so loaded that we could fill a picking bucket while standing in one place.
No one would use the term “well balanced” to describe Pound Sweet. This variety is a true “sweet” apple with almost no acidity. When you pick Pound Sweet in the orchard, the apple appears to glow from the inside - a yellow-orange aura radiating through the translucent green skin. What makes them translucent is water core, a condition that ups the juiciness and sweetness of the fruit. The wisdom handed down through the generations since Pound Sweet originated in CT nearly 200 years ago is that this is not an apple to eat fresh. Add it to a stew, bake it with milk or turn it into molasses, just don’t take a bite. But we disagree. Of all the sweet apples we’ve tried, this one brings a smile.
It’s been so long since we offered Sharon in the CSA that we had forgotten all about it. The variety was first introduced 101 years ago by the Iowa Experiment Station so although it is the product of a breeding program, this McIntosh offspring has been around awhile. The OOAL crew sampled it last week and gave this years crop the thumbs up. Tasty as a dessert fruit, it is also reputed to be “very good quality for the kitchen and juice”.
The last two apples are feasts for the eyes. These two apples appear very different on the outside, but cut open a Hidden Rose or a Redfield and be prepared to be wowed. They are spectacular. Both are descendents of the original red-fleshed, Kazakhstan apple, Niedzwetzkyana. Picking Hidden Rose is like plucking jewels off a necklace; the delicate green peel is the color of spring leaves newly unfurled and the rosy pink that mottles their smooth surface is aptly referred to as blush. These blushing beauties seem almost too precious to eat. So admire them awhile, and then take a bite. Redfield, in contrast is more robust. Indeed it is a work horse that produces apples every year without much fuss. The apple was bred for the apple sauce industry and then abandoned in favor of red food coloring. What a mistake. They make beautiful and tasty sauce, take a pie or a crisp to a new level of awesome, and turn your cider into a visual delight. We’ve packed them into bags with Sharon. If you can’t tell them apart, cut them open.
Our apples come to you straight from the tree, so, as with all fresh produce, please be sure to wash them thoroughly before eating. Some of the apples are grown using Integrated Pest Management by the orchards we collaborate with throughout Maine, and some are organically grown here on Super Chilly Farm.
Apple Talk in Topsham, October 18th
Join us at Sherman's Maine Coast Book Shop of Topsham for an evening of learning about Maine's unusual, historic, and rare apples. John will give a presentation on the many varieties of apples in Maine and read from his book, Apples and the Art of Detection. There will be cider for sampling, and John will be available for questions and signing books after his talk. Wednesday, October 18th • 6-7pm • 65 Topsham Fair Mall Rd • Free and open to the public.
Recipe of the Week
October seems to be our month for visitors. Maybe it’s for the fall colors, maybe it’s for the apples or maybe it’s a desire to avoid mosquito season, but whatever it is our friends and family have been coming to visit in a steady stream since the week of the Common Ground Fair. It’s wonderful to see them and a great opportunity to test out some new apple recipes. Every year, however, I discover that more and more of our visitors avoid gluten, not to mention dairy and eggs. I must have lamented this observation to my daughters because both of them sent me recipes in the past week that were perfect for the dietary restrictions of our guests. One was for a vegan Swiss chard pesto that didn’t include apples (email me if you want the recipe), and the other was for a gluten-free apple cake from the Cup of Jo website. I tried them both and will happily make them again for people who can eat EVERYTHING, they were that good. I made the cake with a mix of four very different apples (Wolf River, Hidden Rose, Blue Pearmain and Belle de Boskoop) and the combo of flavors, colors and textures worked well. I expected the almond flour to be heavy in the cake, but it was surprisingly light. With all those apples packed in, the slices didn’t hold together too well, but slathered in whip cream it hardly mattered.
Mixing up the Brown Butter Apple Almond Cake for a Sunday morning breakfast.
Brown Butter Apple-Almond Cake (gluten-free)
Ingredients:
12 TBS unsalted butter
2 1/4 cups almond flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 cup brown sugar, loosely packed
1/2 tsp Calvados or almond extract
3 eggs
3 large or 4 medium apples - peeled and cut into small chunks. No need to make them uniform in shape.
whipped cream, creme fraiche or plain yogurt
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease the sides and bottom of a 9” round cake pan with butter. Set aside.
Add the butter to a small saucepan, and place it over medium heat. The butter will melt, foam up, calm down and begin to brown. Stir the butter every minute or so as this happens. This should take 4-8 minutes so don’t wander too far away from the stove. As soon as the butter starts to smell nutty and brown speckles begin to form on the bottom of the pan, remove it from the heat so it doesn’t burn. Pour it into a metal or ceramic bowl to cool.
In a medium bowl whisk together the almond flour, baking powder, salt, and brown sugar. In a separate bowl beat the eggs together with the Calvados or almond extract. Stir these into the dry ingredients.
Using a rubber spatula, fold the cooled butter into the flour mix. It will be very wet. Then fold in the apples. The batter will seem overloaded with apples, and that is the intention.
Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan. Push it down a bit with the spatula to fill in the air spaces.
Bake for 45-50 minutes (my cake took closer to 60 minutes to set in the middle) until the top looks golden and toasty and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool before serving.
Serve with whipped cream for dessert or yogurt for breakfast. (Okay, whipped cream is good for breakfast too.)